Sunday, November 22, 2009
Swap is complete, but now I have no spark and the carburetor float is stuck up and draining the fuel out a vent. Back to the drawing boards. Thanks God for the kings!
Friday, October 23, 2009
Wednesday, October 14, 2009
Monday, October 12, 2009
Sunday, May 17, 2009
The 8th of July..... What is so different about the 8th of July THIS year?
At five minutes and six seconds after 4:00 AM on the 8th of July this year,
the time and date will be 04:05:06 07/08/09.
This will never happen again in our life time!
Saturday, April 25, 2009
Monday, March 30, 2009
Wednesday, March 25, 2009
Tuesday, March 24, 2009
Sunday, March 22, 2009
Pics are from over at Gordo's today and Shmitty and Quiugly got a thing goin!!
Started out by drilling a hole in maple tree 7/16 drill bit is the standard for most stock taps--2 to 3 inches deep . I have 5 taps. When temp drops below freezing at night and warms up during the day is the correct reciepe for sap flowage!! Don' take long (4 hrs is a GREAT flow )to fill a milk jug when flow is good. Will post some pics of my trip to Gordo's over on the North West side of Morris hill in East Farmington, over in the rich part of town. Only place around where people drive their ATV's wearing suit, ties and wing tips.
PS my comment on filter information was found at this site. Was not able to hook up the link--I am still learning.
Saturday, March 14, 2009
Wednesday, March 11, 2009
Caliper did not leak but am having master cylinder issues now?
Master cylinder seals are shot. Putting back together will be like sticking a golf ball through a root beer float straw. Any ideas? Anyone! Here is some pics, I have to clean the ports out a little more I see.
Got the washers crammed back in the master cylinder. Going to flush everything out with clean brake fluid and reinstall the pain in the rear. NOTE: bleeding the brakes same as on vehicles always bleed the brake line that has the most distance from the master first. The rebuild will work, the old washers were worn bad.
Sunday, March 1, 2009
Thursday, February 26, 2009
Wednesday, February 25, 2009
Monday, February 23, 2009
The wheel that the rope (pull cord) raps into has a coiled spring behind it. If the spring is still all intact behind it do not take it apart-thats a whole differant ball game and we can cover that sometime if anyone is interested?
Reload the spring by turning counter clockwise 6-8 rotations (99% go counter clockwise). This is the mechanism to retract the rope once we put a new one on. You have to be the judge depending on how long your old rope was. The idea is to have a little pull to rope when it is all the way retracted so it does not dangle there. Only use the amount of rope that you had before. Figure a way to lock the recoil in place once loaded. A small screwdriver poked in somewhere works well. Remove what is left old rope. Tape a piece of small wire on the end of new rope and feed it through the hole in the shroud. Work it in until you can manage the wire through the hole in recoil, tie it off with good square not and drip a little hot melt on to keep it from unravelling.
Now I must tell you my first couple times doing these recoils, weird stuff happens and if it can happen it usually does-once, than we know not too do it again, hopefully.
Before recoiling rope back in, be sure to have your rubber handle tied on the opposing end of rope. If you do not -well you see where that end of the rope will end up. We will hot melt that also but lets be sure the rope length is correct first. Allow rope to recoil holding everything and letting it retract gently. try it out and reinstall on your engine.
Any more pointers that I missed I would appreciate.